Another edition of Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week comes to a close and it is with a sinking heart that I realize that not one single collection has made my hair stand on end or left me breathless. A few pieces stood out and really shone with creativity, but on the whole, there was a lack of heart, of verve, of magic and showmanship. Where is Spanish fashion headed? Is the crisis really hitting so hard as to create this lack of courage and spirit in the designers? I long for the days past when true tailoring and talent blinded us on the Spanish catwalks. I remember looking forward to seeing the proposals from the emerging fashion designers during El Ego. Now it just makes me cringe. Of course, what can be expected when Burger King is the official sponsor…
There were two things that caught my attention during this 54th edition of CMFW. One was the use of Asian models. Maybe someone else can remember, but I don’t think I’ve ever seen any of these girls on the Spanish catwalks. It was a very welcome addition. The other was the strange line-ups that had been organized. The first day remained faithful to the usual consolidated designers, but the rest of the days were such an odd combination of styles. Usually the creators are relatively lumped together, which lends a certain cohesiveness to the schedule. Not so this time.
Among the black and white combinations being forced upon us for next spring, the collection presented by Juana Martin seemed to heave itself out of the mire of boring neutrals. Her attention to quirky details, such as these large, gold square paillettes, was a brief respite. Working with blocks of geometric colours, stripes and geometric details, this is a collection with wearable pieces.
Juana Martin - Image.net
Juana Martin - Image.net
Juana Martin - Image.net
The other collection that was quite interesting was by Sara Coleman. Titled “Ancestra”, the pieces were created with natural fibres, emulating basket weaves and knitted cobwebs. Strange volumes and exaggerated forms add a certain unearthliness to an otherwise organic collection.
Sara Coleman - Image.net
Sara Coleman - Image.net
Sara Coleman - Image.net
The last model leaves the catwalk, the lights dim, people rustle and move. Discarded programmes and schedules litter the floor. Another edition of CMFW is behind us. Life turns outwards once again. Plans are made for next spring before the new autumn / winter 2011 – 2012 is barely upon us. I want to be surprised, I want to be enchanted, I want to see fashion history in the making, but instead I’m left with an empty feeling.
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