Such is the tragedy, that Manuel Bolaño’s models cried drops of pure ink upon living through this past edition of 080 Barcelona Fashion. Inflicted and wounded possibly beyond repair, the independent designers found themselves showing their collections alongside other commercial brands. The press seems to be ignoring the ridiculousness of the situation, while attention and money are carefully placed on furthering ties with The Brandery. But enough about that for the moment, it’s not fair to heap everything together in a post about Manuel Bolaño’s magnificence as a designer.
Titled “How to Mend a Broken Heart”, Manuel Bolaño seemed to have sensed what was going to happen during this edition of 080 Barcelona Fashion. Broken heart indeed, a mourning for that which is slowly being lost. It sends shivers down my spine when I read the collection summary:
We started to understand her life by remembering things we had not yet experienced. We learned what it was like to be a girl and how being one made you dream and know which colours looked good together. We learned that girls were women in disguise who understood love and even death, and that our job was to make the noise that so fascinates them. They knew everything about us and we knew nothing about them.
There was an explosion of colour, quite unusual for Bolaño. Pastel stripes were combined with flowery prints in a heady intoxication. I did find his characteristic darkness to be slightly missing, although as my great photographer, Ana Mogo, later pointed out, the flowers did seem plucked straight from a cemetery. Bright fluoro piping adorned many of the garments and once again, the designer used his rounded glasses on his models.
A resounding congratulation is in order, as Bolaño took home the prize for best women’s collection. It’s hardly a competition, his work is light-years ahead of practically all of the other participants in 080. The collection concepts, the fabrics, music, (soundtrack by Air of The Virgen Suicides), the story that the designer envisions for the catwalk show, the tailoring, the details. Absolutely exquisite. How long will he continue bothering to show his collections here in Barcelona?
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