Photo by Ana Mogo
Politics and fashion, just like oil and water, should not be mixed, likewise independent and commercial. It has now been more than a week since the start of the eighth, and most controversial, edition of 080 Barcelona Fashion. A few have been very open with their critiques, others have opted to remain silent and many have preferred to turn a blind eye to the recent turn of events. Barcelona has a long history of a vibrant and booming fashion industry and it is heart-breaking to see how two steps are taken forward to then move ten steps back.
Photo by Ana Mogo
Photo by Ana Mogo
There are two major issues that, on the one hand, cause controversy, but on the other hand, are not being talked about enough.
1) Commercial brands should not be included inside a fashion week, sharing the same space as the independent designers. No matter how much Mango says they are happy to be included and that it is a new manner to support independent Catalan fashion designers, the mere notion is ridiculous. Please stop talking about consolidated brands. This is a word that has been bandied about during the entire duration of 080 Barcelona Fashion. Mango and TCN are brands, the others are independent fashion designers. The level and difference of daily struggles are not even comparable as they can not be measured on the same scale. A fashion designer must work hard to achieve a status of consolidated. A high-street store, either in the lower, middle or higher bracket, does not face the same challenges. They only have to turn over their stores with new clothes as quickly as possible and have a crew of people working to produce the endless amounts of garments. Yes, Mango and TCN are not to be heaped within the same high-street concept, but there is no mistaking that both are commercial brands and their place is at The Brandery.
One of the demands made by TCN was to showcase their collection a day before the rest of the designers participating in 080 Barcelona Fashion. A stand-alone catwalk show that cost a whole day’s rent of the University building. Which brings us to the second issue at hand, is it right to hold a fashion week in an emblematic building dedicated to higher learning?
Photo by Ana Mogo
2) As Alex Ceball so eloquently wrote in his post about this edition of 080, “fulanas aceitadas en biquini” (and may I add, painfully thin) are an affront to all that is sacred about education in general. I have to admit that I’m torn on this one. It was so necessary to take 080 out and away from the cold sterility of La Fira. The University building is beautiful and I enjoyed gazing at the ceilings, columns and arches while waiting for each show to start. But there are a myriad of buildings in Barcelona that are just as beautiful and carry less weight. It was a beautiful backdrop, but it’s just not right. Research groups had problems going about their usual work, the Logic Colloquium 2011 was to be held the same dates as the 080 and they were rudely shuttled off to another building. It seems that the Logic organization had reserved parts of the University building more than a year ago. Imagine their surprise at being trumped by a fashion event?…
Photo by Ana Mogo
Photo by Ana Mogo
Photo by Ana Mogo
The University and education in general are facing massive economic cuts in the very near future. Was it really necessary to hold the event in this emblematic building? Education and financial cuts were snubbed by fashion and independent designers were snubbed by commercial brands. Aside from the heart-break, it’s starting to look a little contrived and ironic.
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