The last day of 080 Barcelona, meaning that the uncertain future is looming closer and closer. There is one more edition this fall and then… what will happen? Will the little bit that has been achieved be swept away yet again? How can each change of government wreck such havoc on Moda Made in Catalunya?
Omar Kashoura presented his menswear collection, first in line on this last day. His garments reflect his aesthetic of “army of elegance”, clothes constructed for the battlefield of everyday life. Once again, the menswear fails to inspire me. There were a few interesting fabrics: recycled and the combination of synthetic and natural fibres.
Celia Vela continues along in her same line, never offending anyone or pushing the limits. She did seem to be slightly more in touch with her dark side with her new collection “Limerence”. The show started with garments all in black and progressed to a blend of prints. She is steadfast in her trajectory and doesn’t veer from her quirky party pieces.
After checking out Schepper/Arques previous collections, I think this time around they erred on the side of too many references from one look to another. Celebrating shape and texture, the garments fluctuate between rigid proportions and more romantic fluidity. I have to admit that I was expecting a little more excitement from the Schepper/Arques duo.
It was finally Manuel Bolaño’s turn to show his collection. Maybe it was too hard to overcome his last season’s perfect show “Algo de Mi”, for I didn’t find Bolaño to be completely up to form. Titled “Rehearsal for Farewell”, the garments were dark and moody, albeit filled with his signature texture combinations and several different references. There were a few, subtle religious nods, a slight Amish feel to certain looks, Wednesday Addams make-up and some very dour looking models. That said, Manuel Bolaño’s collection was still hands-down the best of this seventh edition of 080 Barcelona Fashion.
So who took home the prizes? Well, a very strange thing occurred. The judges decided to give the two 10.000 Euro prizes to one designer who creates both men and womenswear. That person was Krizia Robustella. Just a quick reminder of two looks from her collection presented on the catwalk. The crowd were divided, some cheering, others sitting in silence. If looks could kill… The other person to garner a prize of sorts was Miriam Ponsa. She will be participating with a stand at the next Atmosphere fair in Paris. This also didn’t seem to go down well with the crowd.
Conclusions? More press than public, including buyers. Very little creativity. Most of the designers are playing safe with collections that are more commercially viable. With the future being so unclear, there is not a single doubt that fashion in Barcelona needs to seriously be shaken up. Things have to change, actions have to be taken. It breaks my heart to see how fashion here seems to be sliding farther and farther away from true imaginative creativity.
All photos courtesy of 080. Thanks once again!
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