More and more black. Third day of Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week and it seems that the cropped trouser is once again forcing it’s way into the collective designer consciousness. The flaw in the plan being that anyone below 1,80 looks positively ridiculous. Bleak and uninspiring, will things start to look up today?
With a horrifyingly early start, Ailanto managed to have a pretty full-house at 10:30 in the morning! A slick “ice” patch covered the runway looking more like spilt milk or a spinal column. Paying homage to winter sports and outdoor activities, the Ailanto brothers played on their special mix of textures, volumes and prints. The hair was huge and crimped, lovely and flyaway. Once they moved away from the typical winter blacks and greys, the tones became more interesting, such as luscious raspberries and tomato reds. Vegetable and flowers motifs are embroidered on garments and the wide, palazzo trousers where divine. Often hit or miss, the Ailanto show became decidedly better after the mid-point mark.
The biggest surprise of the day was the Davidelfin show. Titled “Dyogenes Syndrome“, his eternal provocations seem to be gone. This was a very short collection of garments, very tight and cohesive. A huge mound of clothes sat moodily in the background. David seems to be going through a transition, something is in the air. “Too many accumulated emotions make order impossible. Getting rid of them makes me anxious”. These are the two sentences that accompany the designer’s fall/winter 2011-2012 show. His androgynous style is still in healthy form, although his menswear is always slightly more interesting. A pregnant Bimba Bosé appeared once on the catwalk, sporting a manly coat and looking positively chubby!
To the sound of Alaska’s powerful voice, the models strutted down the catwalk, showcasing a sombre palette of black, grey, cream, white and brown. The grey on grey shades were stunning and the garments seemed to have a Gattaca, future-world feel. Slightly on the stark side, the collection seemed more grown-up and less obsessed about causing a scandal.
Happy, happy shock at the Kina Fernandez show. The colours were luscious… This Kina Fernandez collection exuded comfort, warmth, security, elegance; that terribly difficult balance between sexy and not freezing. The cable-knit sweaters were paired with delicate circle skirts, tucked in and managing to avoid looking bulky. The suit combinations were too cute for words: the darkest chocolate velvet trousers, framboise blouse and perky, navy jacket. There were mismatched buttons and gold-chain details looped along the necklines of sweater. The myriad textures and combinations of fabrics with breath-taking. The styling was nearly perfect… except for the boots. The knee-length boots in deep caramel with gold chain detail were overly clunky for the delicate ensembles.
“Do what you have to do and don’t worry about the reactions”. “Stance” is the fall/winter 2011-2012 by Ana Locking. Blocked eye-shadow and strict fringes on all the models and geometric pieces slotted together to form sweaters, dresses and other garments. The colours were strong: black, electric blue, grey, canary yellow, furious red and a few nudes. Once again, the elbow gloves were brought out in style. A vision of chaotic multiplicity in contrast with the elegance of an ordered set of lines. I prefer other Locking collections from the past.
The third day went from strength to strength, which was a very welcome surprise and a great relief. Juanjo Oliva delivered an excellent collection of garments in exuberant colours and fabrics. The layering of textures was a true work of art. Even the combinations of orange and brown were good. (Something negative can become positive if done in the right way). Everything about this runway show was haunting, especially the music. Starting with something that could be plucked from a Hitchcock or James Bond film, melting into a heavy guitar riff and then back into some of the beautiful melodies last heard in A Single Man. Thinking about the careful attention to texture and the music, maybe A Single Man was part inspiration for Juanjo Oliva?
The day ended with Javier Larrainzer, classic designs in a Spanish vein.
Next up will be the underwear collections. Andrés Sardá and TCN seem to be the only designers to add a bit of show to the CMFW catwalk. Alma Aguilar could be interesting. I’ll sit and cross my fingers.
All photos courtesy of Image.net
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