For the fourth day of Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week, there was a nice injection of sexiness on the catwalk. Sometimes the garments are so watered down, so perfect, so sterile that any element of womanliness is obliterated. It’s nice to see a bit of fresh fun and skin sometimes. Being the day when the two lingerie houses presented their collections, there was enough to satisfy everyone tastes.
Titled “Latin Dreams”, the Andrés Sardá show was an explosion of colour. Playfully toying with clichés, the collection was divided into two parts: day and night. Chiquita Banana through to Frida Kahlo and other references were available in over abundance. Never one to be discrete, the Sardá girls sasheyed down the runway. I love this huge, red tulle skirt. There were pompoms and leopard print, enormous femme fatale hair and red lips.
Love can only describe what I felt upon seeing the Alma Aguilar show. I want every single piece! This does not mean the garments were overly creative. What got me so hot under my collar was that the clothes translate perfectly and seamlessly to everyday life. Titled “Formentor”, the collection is based upon a visit to the Hotel Barceló Formentor. It seems that Aguilar stayed at the hotel this past September 2010 and was very taken with the surroundings, history and guests. This may seem a little strange but the difference here, which was quite evident, is when a designer has a story to tell, something to share, instead of a bunch of trends to throw out at us. Tight and cohesive compared to her other collections of previous seasons, the textures, colours, fabrics and styling came together like a dream.
Almond, cinnamon and indigo blue. Black, smoke grey, white and nude. There were some original vintage floral prints from the ’30s and ’40s but they didn’t actually bring all that much extra to the collection. The perfection was in the silhouettes, volumes, tailoring and details. Hair was messy, reminiscent of Helena Bonham Carter. A well-rounded affair.
Miguel Palacio delivered his goods and there were some interesting pieces but most fall by the wayside, failing to attract much attention. There was a keen focus on tailoring and a safe palette of burgundy, black, slivers of silver, the palest butter yellow and some very soft red and green fur. The only real jolt of colour came from aquamarine combinations that were dazzling. The polka-dot cut-out dresses and blouses were on the interesting side.
The TCN collection was a lovely, dishevelled mix of lingerie, what appeared to be pyjamas and a few items of clothing. It seemed like the models were in the process of dressing or undressing when they got called out on the runway. I especially love this nude body with blue trim and the sock and shoe combinations. There were tiny layers of ruffles on knickers and bras, all very ingénue and exquisite. The grungy riot of prints, layers, fabrics and textures. Not yet a woman, not still a girl.
With an ever-growing number of stores around the world, Sita Murt seems more than set to conquer. Never straying far from safe, never pushing the limits, “Little West Street” was the filled with more subdued wool items and other garments. It always grits on my nerves to see jeans on the runway, it seems like an affront by the designer. The prints were calm and the colour palette continued in the Murt line. Nothing overly interesting.
The Adolfo Dominguez show was a complete let-down after this collection last season. Reworking a ’70s vintage vibe, the references were all over the place. Taking into consideration that Dominguez is one of the most commercial brands to show during CMFW, I suppose it’s normal that there are so many different types of garments to satisfy their different target customers. There were several acid brights, pink, yellow and green to be exact, very summery for a winter collection. The prints were garish and the menswear was tame, commercially viable.
Cibeles Madrid Fashion has only one day left to prove itself. Hopefully El Ego will showcase more creative talent and risky designs. I’m looking forward to Maria Escoté and Carlos Diez.
All photos courtesy of Image.net
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