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Barcelona was far more widely recognized as a fashion city during the 20th century. Even the Spanish Civil War would not be a deterrent for those looking to acquire new garments. From the 1920s and continuing until 1974, Spain truly lived through a golden era of fashion. The unfortunate “Luxury Tax” would snuff out practically all of the designers in one severe blow.

The Antoni de Montpalau textile collection displays an extraordinary amount of garments made by these great Spanish designers. After travelling around various cities, the exhibition has landed in Barcelona’s Palau Robert and was inaugurated to a packed house yesterday evening.

I was curious to see how the collection would be set up this time, as I had already visited the exhibit at Madrid’s Museo del Traje and had left feeling more than a little disappointed. The collection in itself is head-spinning. A dizzying mix of Spanish designers, each dress more beautiful than the last. The problem resided in the set-up of the show. Stark, uninviting, the garments were grouped with no apparent order in mind.

Upon entering the Palau Robert, the entrance vitrines have been transformed by Gratacós, which is just across the street. Tubes of fabric line the walls, there are two fabric-swathed mannequins and a small representation of a seamstress’s workplace. The entrance hall was packed with Barcelona’s cast of old women with huge hats that were customers of some of these designers, fashion students, fashion wannabes, curious people and others with genuine interests and passions.

Dresses by Carmen Costeja and Pedro Rodríguez

Dresses by Pedro Rodríguez

Once I finally managed to squeeze inside, I was comforted to find a much more desirable set-up. Black rooms were the backdrop to the gorgeous dresses, coats and tailleurs. Each room opened up, offering more and more glittering samples. Although there is a heavy Catalan representation, many of the designers were from other parts of Spain and opened their headquarters in Barcelona. It’s so very intoxicating to be so close to such fine garments, with no glass in-between. The temptation to touch is so great!

Dress by Pertegaz

Cream dress by Pertegaz

White dress by Pedro Rovira

Dress by Carmen Mir

Each of the garments is perfect, lovely, exquisite. There are also a variety of hats and shoes, fabric samples and Pedro Rodríguez drawings by different illustrators. There is no underlying thread or concept to the exhibition, just the pure, unadulterated joy of displaying part of the Montpalau collection. There were too many people to fully enjoy the experience so a second trip will be necessary. The exhibition will be open up to the 28th of February and is free of charge.

Balenciaga

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Balenciaga, carmen mir, gratacos, montpalau, palau robert, pedro rodriguez, pedro rovira, Pertegaz, rosser, spanish couture

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