Sticky Fingers BCN

Last day of Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week and one word conveys the sorrow: severe disappointment. In a country plunged in supposed financial crisis, (although one only has to go out during the weekend to see that the bars, restaurants, cinemas and theatres are as full as always), the designers have decided to err on the side of safety and lower the sartorial bar on creativity. Where is Spanish fashion headed? Even Vogue España doesn’t dedicate more than a few miserly pages, way at the end of the magazine, to covering the Madrid, Barcelona and Valencia catwalks and yet dedicates pages and pages to London, Milan, New York and Paris. They have even started to pay attention to South American fashion weeks. Aren’t alarm bells sounding in anyone’s heads?

Davidelfin - image.net

It’s always a spectacular moment when Bimba Bose struts down Davidelfin’s catwalk. His collection was named “Tautology” and represented a concept or thought repeatedly expressed in different ways. The same love, concerns, fears and obsessions that we always have, imprinted onto his garments but with different patterns, cuts and fabrics. Black and white were predominant but the real star of the show was his perfect, saturated Klein blue. Sharp silhouettes, garments that seem to be deconstructed and later pieced together. Delfin’s shows are always a relief, if only for the fact that he shies away from the normal conventions.

Juanjo Oliva - image.net

Juanjo Oliva, on the other hand, was popping with colour. Looking just like boiled sweets wrapped in transparent plastic, the palette combinations were mouth-watering. There was draping, soft body-skimming fabrics and lots of grey jersey. Yet another safe and sellable collection of garments for the “urban-elegant” woman. There seems to be an awful trend. Are the designers really generalizing so very much?

Javier Larrainzar - image.net

Javier Larrainzar did what he does best: dresses. Short, long, party and night. Each of the dresses envelope and celebrate the feminine body. Transparent fabrics and lace feature ethnic and floral prints, filled with beading detail. So what exactly is the best method? Should a designer stick to what they do the best or should they branch out and try something more risky? Larrainzar always maintains his personal design aesthetic and doesn’t surprise much season to season.

Amaya Arzuaga - image.net

Amaya Arzuaga never falls to deliver and her S/S 2011 collection is no exception. Combining her “Maile” and prêt-à-porter designs, Arzuaga will be presenting her main collection in Paris. Like always, our best designers are swept off to other fashion weeks. A sober colour palette of chocolate brown, beige, navy blue, red, black and white added a serious note to her otherwise fun creations. Origami-like folds danced across tops, dresses and skirts. Every single item was completely lust-worthy, user-friendly and creative. Such a relief on the last day!

Lydia Delgado - image.net

Lydia Delgado’s show was the biggest surprise for me this week. Her collections are always cute, chic, perfect and sweet but this time she took it to a whole new level. Titled “Garden of Love”, there were flowers and Bengal pink, pailletes and gold leopard print. The panels of prints and smooth fabrics fit together like mosaics. Ribbons and flounces, sheer blouses, raincoats and the most perfect ’50s-style dresses. This was another collection that I wish I could entirely include in my wardrobe.

Elio Berhanyer - image.net

After a pause to announce the L’Oreal grand prize winner, (congrats to Teresa Helbig for snagging the prize), it was time for the last show of the week. Elio Berhanyer enjoyed the honour of closing the proceedings which I don’t believe to be the most exciting option. Here again is an example of another designer that sticks to what works best for him. Dresses in all shapes and sizes are Berhanyer’s fort, very classic and inspired by couture. To be specific, cocktail dresses are where he really displays his design work and there were a few interesting details.

Another season has come to a close, the designers will heave a sigh of relief and start thinking about F/W 2011. Not the most exciting Madrid Fashion Week, S/S 2011 is looking dismal. Commercial and safe collections abounded with little or no creative character. Fashion in Spain needs a serious revitalization which never seems to arrive. Just a slight handful manage to hold aloft the creative flame but it never seems nearly enough. Usually such an exciting moment, I spent almost the entire week groaning inwardly. Frustrating to say the least…

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aa de amaya arzuaga, Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week, David Delfin, Elio Berhanyer, Javier Larrainzar, Juanjo Oliva, Kina Fernández, Lydia Delgado

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