Sticky Fingers BCN

Time is running out for Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week. With only two days left to pick up the pace, the proceedings are starting to look vaguely worrying. Viewing the proposals for next season is always a pleasure, but this 52nd edition has been nothing short of disappointing. Red and orange seem to be big trends for S/S 2011, black is appearing too often, we’ll be forced into wearing leather, even though the temperatures may make things a little sweaty. Too early to draw a final conclusion, so let’s take a look at the shows on day 4.

Alma Aguilar - image.net

Ruffles and ruching and flowers, oh my. Alma Aguilar presented a sticky-sweet collection that will work a treat commercially. Starting with the purity of white to symbolize a blank canvas, the colours are layered on like brush strokes. Combining gauzy fabrics with rustic cotton, Aguilar desires to clothe women with a natural touch, feminine and with hints of luxury. Evoking a summer breeze filled with the scent of blossoms and fruit, the garments sport a flowing silhouette that allows the body to move freely. There is quite an equestrian vibe going on which quirks up the other too-sweet designs. The hats seemed to be added as an after-thought and there is not much going on here, a fluid transition from her winter collection.

Devota & Lomba - image.net

Devota & Lomba added to the sinking feeling that nothing much is going on in general. Plucking inspiration from a chaotic, tangled plant system complete with the tribal music of birds, insects and aborigines, a natural habitat in danger, the colour palette was varied as well as the different fabrics. Much more is not always best. Classic shapes in dresses and jackets have been reworked and filled with details, prints and cutouts, but what exactly is the meaning? This is a collection that translates well to the high street, but doesn’t offer any grand conclusions or fashion statements. The messy braids tied in nicely with the overall looks and the bags were urban and multi-purpose.

Hannibal Laguna - image.net

Possibly evoking the new Darren Aronofsky film, Hannibal Laguna’s collection is titled “The Black Swan”. His models and garments breathe an Italian film-star air circa the ’50s. Eternally true to his own personal style, Laguna never strays very far from his design aesthetic and presents a constant stream of night and party dresses. Partaking of details more akin to the masters of yore, his creations boasted sophisticated volumes in tulip, corolla and pencil forms. The colours are jewel-like and the fabrics are sumptuous. On the one hand, Laguna’s designs are safe and created for a specific type of Spanish client. On the other, he knows what he does best and doesn’t try to impress with crazy ideas. His catwalks shows should be taken at face-value and enjoyed for their elegance.

Roberto Torretta - image.net

How to grasp a collection that is so utterly normal as to be completely unassuming and under the fashion radar? Roberto Torretta’s show was an amalgam of pieces that looked straight out of a high-street store. This is a designer that has commercial ends firmly in his mind. A little bit of the ’70s, a little more of the ’90s, according to Torretta, this is the modern-day explorer woman. Lauren Hutton is mentioned, although the correlation is not entirely clear… All the usual adjectives can be applied: feminine, sophisticated, casual, etc, etc.

Angel Schlesser - image.net

Angel Schlesser’s collection was a study in pure minimalism and austerity. Presenting a subdued palette of whites, creams, blacks, beige and a few garments in tomato red and bubble-gum pink, Schlesser’s designs work well as new additions to existing wardrobes. But these pieces that work well as separates, are more along the lines of basic pieces to renew. The term “urban elegance” was bandied around like usual and the designer didn’t stray far from his “tried and true” skirt and trouser suits and dresses. The eponymous leather t-shirt made an appearance, but not much was happening during this show.

Roberto Verino - image.net

Roberto Verino seemed to have his seasons mixed up. Supposedly inspired by the luminosity of summer, the warmth and brilliance of the sun, the woman who loves glamour and modernity but is not willing to forsake comfort; the dark, at times heavy, fabrics, goth look, jackets, coats and certain fur details begged to differ. The collection is lovely as a winter proposal, filled with exquisite details and layers of fabric. Yes, the hemlines are short, but does this really work for S/S?

Miriam Ocáriz - image.net

Oh sweet and delicious, subversive and edgy Miriam Ocáriz, can you do no wrong? That said, her collection was slightly more subdued than other seasons, but her prints make up the difference. There are very crisp lines defining the woman’s figure and even the voluminous proposals are sharp. The palette is soft with some garments in black. The important aspect of all Ocáriz’s collections are her prints which are positively heavenly and this time around is no exception.

What a lovely way to end an otherwise nondescript day. The last day of Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week is in sight and there’s barely any time left to better the S/S 2011 situation. Crossing my fingers about Davidelfin and Amaya Arzuaga.

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Alma Aguilar, Angel Schlesser, Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week, Devota & Lomba, Hannibal Laguna, Miriam Ocariz, roberto torretta, Roberto Verino

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