Tercer día de la 51 Cibeles Madrid Fashion

Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week Continues

22 February 2010 By Vera Ciria 2 In Fashion

Seven different designers were programmed on Sunday. Hoping to see more colour proposals for winter, I was not disappointed. Is it really necessary to clothe oneself all in black just because the weather is cold? Considering that climates are changing during every season, what better way to face the dropping temperature than with shots of pure, unadulterated of colour…

José Miró - image.net

José Miró commenced the catwalk proceedings with a collection named “Babel”. Considering that everywhere one goes, there is a melting pot of ethnicities, languages, cultures and traditions, Miró searched for Utopian perfection through his pieces. New silhouettes, materials and cuts mixed and blended together, predicting the immediate future. Slightly incomprehensible? Yes. A relief from black? Definitely! Metallic fabrics that shimmered in eye-catching iridescence were combined with transparent, fluttering cloth and matte textures. There were even baby-doll dresses for winter and an almost spring-like palette of colours ranging from caramel browns and creams to soft-focus mauves, pastel pinks and sky blues. Hair was tightly plaited back from the forehead lending a cute yet strict aesthetic to the models.

Ailanto - image.net

Brothers Iñaki and Aitor, the two designers behind Ailanto also broke the black mood and introduced wild amounts of colour to their creations. They presented a concept of a reserved girl, not yet a woman, who longs to be something or someone else. The focal point was the neck, with long scarves, foulards and neckerchiefs in saturated shades and prints. Musical instruments and lyre birds were placed among baroque floral bouquets. Canary yellows, burnt orange, a few pieces entirely in black, electric blues, opaque fabrics such as wools were combined with slippery silks. There were short, cuffed shorts and lined blouses lending a school-girl air to the models. At best, a confusing mix.

Lydia Delgado - image.net

Oh, to be ladylike and never have a hair out of place! The setting is New York and the woman is very feminine, with a beautiful perfection. “Les Belles” was Lydia Delgado’s proposal for a/w 2010. Ruched fabric on coats and blouses gave the appearance of bows. Polka-dotted, sleeveless blouses were accompanied by pencil skirts with inlaid panels. The collection was created around a palette of tomato reds, slate greys, black and creams. There were boleros and peplum jackets, belted coats and the prettiest capped sleeves. A humorous vein appeared in the form of fur, used on hoods, as epaulettes on jackets and across the breasts on dresses. Could this be a stab at making fun of the overwhelming military influence visible in so many other designers’ collection? There were several references jostling for attention: Art-Deco prints, Oriental touches, 50s cuts and Betty Boop bows. If only I could carry off looking immaculate for the whole duration of a day!

Kina Fernández - image.net

Yesterday, military was the name of the game; today the focus was on lady-like chic. Kina Fernández definitely had the working woman in mind when putting together her collection. Defined as street-chic, every piece could go directly to everyday life without any type of alteration. There was a strong nautical theme throughout that was softened by the Parisian air that infused Kina’s clothes. Berets were offset with rope belts. The first jeans appeared with gorgeous, high, paper-bag waists. Chanel-style jackets and abstract prints in red, cream and blue made for casual and chic proposals.

Miriam Ocariz - image.net

I was really looking forward to Miriam Ocariz’s show, but where were her “oh-so-famous” fantasy prints? Her pieces were a mixture of sophisticated-sporty, although there were several looks that bordered on lady-like primness. Nearly all the models’ hands were sheathed in differing lengths of leather gloves. The key colours were grey, cream and black, but were broken up with injections of cherry reds in belts and tiny fur stoles, inky blues and several coats and dresses confectioned completely in butane orange. High-waisted, suspendered shorts were combined with eye-blinding, white blouses. Prince of Wales checks and tweeds, thick black piping on jackets and grey marl, space-age dresses were thrown together, combining futuristic elements with delicate gathers and feminine textures. Prints started to appear about half-way through the show, but were very pared down, enhancing verticality through manual geometrical lines.

Ana Locking - image.net

Spinning Destiny was a curious introspection carried out by Ana Locking. A kaleidoscope disk in the background set the scene for a veritable explosion of colour that was to follow. Can fashion represent our desires and fears without renouncing seduction and a sense of fun aesthetic? How not to fall into a sombre attitude while looking and searching inside oneself? These are the questions that Locking asked herself. The combination of different shades and tones was a cause for celebration: juicy reds mixed with shimmering oranges; bubblegum pink, sky blues and strawberry reds combined in one look, rosy pink, champagne and black vie for attention in another. The volume increases: over-sized square-gem jewellery hanging from the models necks and appeared on men’s lapels. Three-tiered, futuristic peplums on jackets; dresses appeared to be constructed from puzzle pieces that left a sliver of skin visible to the eye. Towards the end, prints made their appearance, seeming to look like liquefied flowers and crescendoing to end up as a paint-splash colour wheels.

Lemoniez - image.net

To end a fun-filled Sunday at Cibeles, Lemoniez returned to a sombre mood. Once again, black was the main proposal. There were a few shades of chocolate browns, aubergines, golds and optic prints, with the stellar appearance of a butter-yellow blouse. This was a serious collection, made up of no-nonsense coats and sheath dresses. Paired-down and serious, a general low-point to a rainbow filled day.

There are still two days left of Cibeles and it was a welcome relief to pull away from the military trend. My expectations are high and I’m still waiting for more “designing outside of the box” creations.

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Ailanto, Ana Locking, baby doll dresses, Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week, floral bouquets, immediate future, José Miró, Kina Fernández, Lemoniez, Lydia Delgado, melting pot, metallic fabrics, Miriam Ocariz