Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week kicked off yesterday morning with El Ego, the alternative runway for emerging designers. Ten different creators showcasing their innovative views, leaning towards a more vanguard notion of fashion. Sara Coleman and Beba’s Closet were the two designers first in line to start off this fashion-filled week.
Sara Coleman’s collection was based on the hole as a metaphor for openess, liberation and communication. When looking through a hole, what before was invisible becomes visible to the viewer, a point of connection. A fusing of past and present and future, creating a whole new space. Using fabrics such as felt, crêpes, silk gauzes, cotton threads and ottoman ribs, she constructed an extremely wearable collection. I love the mix of purples, blacks and greys. The different proportions on shoulders and skirts were stunning.
Beba’s Closet’s catwalk proposal were lust-worthy. I have completely fallen in love with Barbara’s designs. “Carte de Tendre” is the designer’s first Prêt-a-Couture collection. This is a theatre play acted in fashion. 20 different pieces were divided into three acts.
Act 1: A dream… a memory that washed away… silence. Recreated with recovered lace and gauzes.
Act 2: Another person’s glance… mirror… desire… longing… Recreated with organdie, pleats and layers.
Act 3: Night falls… rendez-vous… the abyss. Recreated with hand-crafted embroidery and vintage lamé.
Next in line were Cati Serra and Georgina Ordinas. Cati’s collection was named We, based on the theme that sexual identity is nothing more than an illusion. It is an attempt to redefine neutral and avoid the stereotypical representations of gender. All very nice, but a little to black and androgynous for my taste.
Ordinas also played with the gender theme. Using black as a neutral base, the collection is based on such great artists as Duchamp and Man Ray and their manner of viewing the world. The clothes are geometrical, leaning towards a certain harshness, the triangular volumes referring to the male form and the rectangles to hiding the female form. Not exactly my cup of tea…
Anjara showed a collection that was quite possibly the tamest of the different offers during El Ego. With no obvious references or even subtle, the emphasis was on attitude and how this changes from one woman to another. Women’s curves, motion, skills, character were the focal points and were displayed in a rich palette of wine reds, royal blues, metallic greys, shimmering golds and basic blacks. Nothing very out of the ordinary here.
Solitas is the mastermind of Ana Sanchéz and Susana Galindo. Following along the lines of the recent trend in laser-cut graphic prints, their confections were liberally plastered with images. The girls go about their creative process as an intimate activity, similar to writing or meditating. The prints are based on their own personal experiences and were reminiscent of recent pieces that have been seen on international catwalks. Too much optical noise for my eyes to deal with.
Isabel Mastache’s catwalk show was pure fun. A menswear collection strangely based on fragments of ethnicity from various cultures such as India and Central Europe. These are challenging pieces with varying volumes, the different materials overlap and combine to portray a stratification of history. Flowers and hearts, cloth penises attached to trousers, extreme headdresses. An amazing display of different elements and references which smoothly combine and mix offering up a very humorous result. I found this collection to be absolutely riveting.
Carlos Doblas, strikes out on his own after working under the protective wing of David Delfin. Incoherence was the name of his game, showing a blend of narrow leg trousers, bell-bottoms, long and short sleeves, culottes and mini-skirts, symmetry and asymmetry. The colours were bright: juicy oranges, electric blues, brilliant yellows, black and écru. All his pieces are constructed in artificial materials, plastics, fake fur, elastic, the list is endless. I loved the bright fur gilets for men, the plastic strip skirts and the trouser-skirts.
Maya Hensen rocked out with her heavy metal couture. All the classic were present: patches, leather, spikes, and tassels. References such as music groups and music videos were all in evidence.With a pin-up air and reminiscent of Thierry Mugler, this was a very precise collection.
American Perez gave us all a lesson in American high school styles. Cheerleaders and cool guys, 50s-style waiteresses, this was a study and exercise of fashions gone by. There was a certain evocation of Moschino and the colour palette was lifted from the paintings of Edward Hopper: mustards, mauves, chestnut browns, cherry reds, dusty roses, sky blues and creams. The entire show had a slightly dreamy quality and was immensely enjoyable.
Now it’s time for the big, consolidated players to show their confections on the catwalk. Will they be able to offer up the same quality and enjoyment? That will be seen during the rest of Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week.
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