Sticky Fingers BCN

Yesterday was the second last day to the finish of Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week. A round-up of the some of the best known names in Spanish fashion. The focus was on underwear as was presented by Andrés Sardá and TCN. Alma Aguilar was the first designer of the day.

Alma Aguilar - image.net

Aguilar’s collection was a reliable compendium of everyday clothes. Separate pieces would translate perfectly to one’s work and play life. Using menswear tailoring as a base, each item is softened bringing a romantic allure. The show started with an impressive antler headpiece reminiscent of Alexander McQueen and a snowy, tree-lined boulevard backdrop. The clothes were a wonder of textures: wool, fur, lace, water-effect shimmers and puffed and padded coats.

Andrés Sardá - image.net

Considering the recent Alice in Wonderland mania that has sprouted due to the imminent release of Tim Burton’s long awaited movie, Andrés Sardá presented his lingerie collection based on this timeless story. Models wore rabbit ears and Mad Hatter, crazy hats. There was an air of fantasy and a dreamlike quality to the entire line. The show was divided into three different parts. The first block was set in an over-sized garden where the models emerged in scant nothings in colours ranging from moss green, nudes and flesh, mole greys and sands. Continuing along, the second part showcased a surreal, dandy afternoon tea with colours ranging the gamut from mink and ebony, royal purples, dreamy violets, cool greys and luscious navy blues. The show ended wrapped around the concept of the queen of hearts with blacks, cayenne reds and and mother-of-pearl. This has been one of the best shows so far due to the spectacular settings. Sardá rarely disappoints!

Devota & Lomba - image.net

This was a day lacking in excitement. Designers continued in their recognized veins and barely showed any exciting proposals. This was the case of Devota & Lomba. Grey and black was used as a backdrop for deep shades of saturated yellows, magentas, greens and cobalt blues. This was the eternal theme of order and chaos, with only a few dresses standing out at the end. Exaggerated volumes around the neck made it difficult for the models to see where they were going.

David Delfin - image.net

What to expect from the most-talked about show? David Delfin presented his collection during the New York Fashion Week and still had time to show at Cibeles. This is the show that always has the highest celebrity count along its’ front row. This is the designer who always has Bimba Bosé open and close. Named “Backstage”, it referenced the unconscious, the backstage of the mind. Considering the times that we live in right now, in constant uncertainty about money and work, this was a introspection filled with intensity and displacements. A heavy importance was placed on colour, with each shade representing a certain element. White: beginnings and resurrections. Black: power, violence and death. Grey: tinges all the feelings we keep secret. Dark yellow: the most contradictory colour; mixed with black, this signifies danger, a warning. Fuchsia pink: the most highly-appreciated colour; aggressive and scandalous. With a certain masculine edge, it was all a bit harsh for my taste.

Javier Larrainzar - image.net

Javier Larrainzar presented a collection that departed from his usual aesthetics, relying heavily on up-to-date elegance and youthfulness. That doesn’t mean that he has changed his streamlined classicism. This was a more affordable idea of luxury and will be a big hit with his die hard fans.

Sita Murt - image.net

Originally from Barcelona, Sita Murt is just one of the many designers who decided to make the move to Madrid. Different shades of buttercup yellow stole the show in an otherwise bleak scenario of colours. Emphasis was placed on the shoulders, enhanced with pleating, trims and voluminous shoulder pads.

TCN - image.net

TCN’s models sported pleasing, wispy-frayed hair and gorgeous Bambi lashes. The collection was made up of lingerie and outerwear as always. The positioning of bright, red corsets over print dresses was an ingenious way to flow from one part of the show to the other. TCN is usually more about attitude than anything else and the models were positively brilliant.

One last day to go and the fullest as well. What will the closing designers bring to the catwalk? So far, there has been big hitters the first day, military influence the second, a colour explosion on the third and romantic classicism on the fourth. What will be next?

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Alexander Mcqueen, alice in wonderland, Alma Aguilar, Andrés Sardá, Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week, David Delfin, Devota & Lomba, Javier Larrainzar, queen of hearts, rabbit ears, Sita Murt, TCN, tim burton

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