Sticky Fingers BCN

Yesterday was the final day of Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week. It seemed like time was running out as ten designers were programmed throughout the day and were also doubled up. That meant two shows going on at the same time. This is nothing out of the ordinary in other cities, but considering that Cibeles is on the small side, it didn’t seem all that necessary. Unfortunately, the week didn’t end with a bang, although there were a few interesting and creative proposals.

Ion Fiz - image.net

Ion Fiz started off a day which was filled with a lot of fluff and several surprises. “My Way” was a collection created with strong, independent, unique women in mind such as Diana Vreeland, Elsa Schiaparelli, Paloma Picasso or Anais Nin. This was a woman who exudes glamour in a natural manner, born with this innate quality. A certain meticulousness that is closely studied. The models paraded down the runway with hair swept into tall up-dos that were carefully messy. Extremely frayed cuffs and hems peaked out from jackets and below skirts. The feeling was a sigh, a extravagant decadence. The colour range was lust-worthy, starting with dirty, blush pinks and nudes, following along to fairground yellows mixed with cotton candy pink and finishing with shades of black accentuated with gold details. Fur was a staple item throughout the show, as well as gold accessories in the form of belts, heels and over-sized, envelope clutches. I loved the pockets inserted along the waists of pencil skirts and the extraordinary work carried out in pleats, gathers and tucks, fabric that folded over onto itself. This is an easier version of ladylike chic to try as the slightly scruffy decadence allows for mere mortal imperfection.

Maria Escoté - image.net

Thank goodness for a great beginning to the last day! “Dreams of Beauty: Fire Walk With Me” was the collection presented by Maria Escoté. This was paradise with a hint of darkness, this is what some of the characters in a Neil Gaiman or Paul Auster novel would wear. Corset-laced details adorned elbow-length, fingerless gloves, bodices, dresses and skirts. Colours raged from tomato reds and rich wines to sky blues and honey-crunchy browns. The two-tone, cowboy shoes added a certain Americana air to the proceedings as well as the bald eagle prints. Carousel horses appliquéd on dresses, piping on waitress-style tops and dresses, feathers and a fluffy, pink cloud of a coat all added to the fairground appeal. The most perfect, velvet jumpsuit appeared, which still makes me weak at the knees. Adorned with brass buttons, confectioned in a deep, wine red and sporting a heart-shaped décolletage, this was one of the most perfect pieces of the entire week.

Maria Barrós - image.net

A lot of black during María Barrós’ show. Teresa Helbig was a disappointment compared to her wedding dresses and evening wear which are usually spectacular.

Teresa Helbig - image.net

Carlos Diez Diez - image.net

Carlos Diez Diez is well-known for causing vast amounts of debate with his provocative designs. This time around was no different. Keeping to a strict colour palette of blacks, whites, greys and silver, with the added extra of an enormous check print, this was a complicated mix of astronaut crossed with parachutist, crossed with sado elements and terrorist balaclava sky hoods brought down a notch with teddy bear ears. Absolutely impressive.

El Delgado Buil - image.net

El Delgado Buil was the last show to cause any type of creative impact, although there were still shows left to finish off the day. Ana Figuera Delgado and Macarena Ramos Buil are the two powerhouses behind the label. This was a case of “More is More and Better”! Mind-boggling! The combinations, the layers, the mix, the overt bohemian feeling. Fur was added to animal prints, plaid and leather. Shearling accompanied denim with fur stoles, all layered over high-waisted pencil skirts and knobbly leggings. Horses and fox hunt prints were liberally splashed across trousers and tops. Fine, cobwebby knits, it was all so much fun. This would be a little overpowering for just anyone, but separate pieces would translate well to the everyday wardrobe.

Juana Martín - image.net

Lots more black from Juana Martín… Nicolas Vaudelet had a strong Balenciaga vibe from several seasons ago going on.

Nicolas Vaudelet - image.net

Jesús Lorenzo - image.net

Miguel Marinero - image.net

The day wound down with four consecutive shows, which bordered on the dull side of fashion. Miguel Palacio was awarded the L’Oreal prize for best designer during this edition of Cibeles. I would love to know the criteria of the judges when making their decision. Palacio’s designs are nice, but that’s precisely the problem, they’re safe.

I would like to highlight what I thought was the best about each day, so here goes a quick summary:

Day 1 – El Ego: The most interesting day, but that’s probably due to the status of emerging designer. They can take more risks and have nothing to prove yet. Beba’s Closet and Isabel Mastache were, in my opinion, the most interesting proposals of the day.

Day 2 – Cibeles kicks off: The proceedings started with the heavy weights, the designers that have been around the block for many, many years. With a very consolidated fan base, there is not much room for being risky. I liked Victorio & Lucchino, but this is due to the appeal on my more romantic side.

Day 3 – Long live the military trend: Show after show paraded this trend down the catwalk. A bit tiring after awhile. Amaya Arzuaga was spot-on with her great collection.

Day 4 – Finally! Colour!: I’m having a hard time deciding which show I liked the best on Sunday, so here go a few, Lydia Delgado for her ladylike looks, Miriam Ocariz because she never disappoints and Ana Locking for her curious introspection so beautifully crafted into clothes.

Day 5 – Cute femininity, lingerie and Alice in Wonderland: Lingerie was at it’s best and I loved the Andrés Sardá show, “Wonderland”. TCN was also great, especially in hair and make-up.

Day 6 – How not to end with style: Maria Escoté and El Delgado Buil were my absolute favourites of the day and Carlos Diez Diez was the most shocking.

And it’s a wrap. We’ll have to wait another 6 months to see the new proposals from our Spanish designers. I hope there will be more daring and creativity next time around and I would love to see the Catalan designers return to show in Barcelona… One can keep hoping!

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anais nin, Balenciaga, Carlos Díez, Cibeles Madrid Fashion Week, cotton candy, diana vreeland, El Delgado Buil, elsa schiaparelli, gold accents, Ion Fiz, Jesús Lorenzo, Juana Martín, Maria Barros, Maria Escoté, Miguel Marinero, neil gaiman, Nicolas Vaudelet, paloma picasso, paul auster, pencil skirts, Teresa Helbig

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